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Today I’m introducing you to PM-Patterns, a french brand of patterns established in 2012. I had never heard of this company so when the blog tour was announced, I quickly applied. I was intrigued by the “timeless and modern patterns” offered on their website. I fell in love with the girls patterns, but as I have mentioned before, I don’t have girls, so yet again another reason to sew for myself.
For this tour, I received the Mademoiselle Babydoll Pattern to review. The blouse option caught my attention as it has a ruffle on the bodice. It can also be made into a dress with knits or woven fabrics! Yes, you heard that right! I chose a knit fabric for a more comfortable and lose fit. Even though I was excited to get started with this project, I was hesitant because this pattern doesn’t come in my size per my measurements. This pattern is available in European sizes 32-46, which I am way out of the size range. I thought I would learn to grade a pattern, but unfortunately, being super busy, I watched a video online and thought it to be too time consuming to tried to grade the pattern. So I decided to go with the biggest size and use it as a muslin to see what adjustments I need to make for a future version.
Sadly, I didn’t look at the wealth of information offered on the size guide tab, which has so much information on grading a pattern and making adjustments to your muslin on the PM-Patterns website. Even if you don’t use their patterns, their size guide is extremely helpful for making alterations to a pattern.
I sewed a size 46: height, 66 7/8, bust 41 3/8, waist 33 1/2, hips 43 3/4
My measurements: height 64″, bust 45″, waist 39″, hips 46.5″
The good news is that the pattern designer is adding more sizes in the future patterns yay!
Pattern Description & Options:
- dress/blouse with dropped-waist and visible zipper: I chose the blouse with contrasting visible zipper (off white)
- blouse/dress with sleeves, short sleeves or sleeveless: I chose the blouse with 3/4 sleeves
- front & back darts: I chose front bust darts and NO back darts for a looser fit
- dress with one ruffle and blouse with 2 ruffles: I chose contrasting ruffles with the blouse option
The difficulty level of this pattern is rated as 3 stars (out of 3) and that is probably due to the fact that you have to sew a visible zipper on the back bodice. This was the most difficult part for me and I had to undo the zipper 2 times. Finally, the third time I thought it was ok, but as you can see from the photo, the zipper is a bit wrinkled on the right side. I think this is because I didn’t iron my zipper before hand (rookie mistake) or because It was not pulled correctly when I attached it to the fabric.
The instructions on this part of the zipper are very thorough and so you just have to make sure to follow them exactly so you get the zipper on correctly. I basted the zipper at the bottom first to get the it to sit properly then a couple inches on each side to make sure that it was positioned properly as I think I cut the “Y” to deep so it wasn’t working out per the sewing instructions. I believe that was my mistake, though.
Going back a bit to the darts, it seems to be more complicated than it actually is. I spent about 30 minutes trying to get the darts right, but It was only because I was over thinking how to do it. Once I got one side, the second was a breeze and sewing the darts was no problem. The rest of the construction was a breeze, that is until I got to the ruffles.
I don’t know why I thought it would be a good idea to cut the strips for the ruffles longer and wider? I think the reasoning behind this thought was that I would need more fabric since I have a wider/curvier frame than the pattern so I needed more fabric (bad choice). I ended up having too much ruffles had to unstitch the ruffles from the bodice a first time when I realized the short ruffle was behind the front ruffle, which means that when the bodice was on the right side, the long ruffle would cover the short ruffle (sigh). So I unstitched and then decided to go with another fabric.
So I used a DBP for the second set of ruffles (pictured). Again, even though I thought I followed the instructions that part is a bit confusing and if you’re not thinking how this part will be attached to the bodice when the garment is on the right side, you may make a mistake. The designer has requested feedback and I’m sure is very interested in our opinion, so I will communicate this comment. Maybe this is just my scatter brain!
The second most difficult part of this pattern was attaching the ruffle to the bodice. As you can see from the photos the bottom of the bodice is folded and the ruffles are attached by top stitching. In order to get to that point you have to do a lot of basting to get the ruffles on to the bodice and then you top stitch. If you’re lazy like me, you’re going to have a “hard” time with this because I hate to undo the basting stitches. If you’re not careful, you can rip into your knit fabric like I did several times. You must also make sure to fold the bodice as indicated and press it so it is nice and crisp.
Even though I pressed the knit fabric, I have a hard time getting it to lay flat and stay down. I believe this is because the bottom bodice is hugging my “curves” too tight so it doesn’t lay flay as it should if it was a looser fit. Also, given that I used the largest size with the height of 66 7/8 (5’6″approx), the blouse has to sit a bit higher than it currently sits now. I tried adjusting the blouse a couple of inches higher and voila, the fold sits perfectly. So, for the next blouse, I will use the correct length of the bodice so it sits where it needs to.
When I tried on the bodice without the ruffle, I was so thrilled that it actually went over my body. I wasn’t sure it was even going to fit, so I was pleasantly surprised. I am also happy I chose a knit french terry for the bodice as it stretches and it is very soft and comfortable. I also like the contrasting ruffles in DBP as they tend to go with the off white visible zipper and main fabric. Finally, I love the 3/4 sleeve option as the blouse can be worn throughout the year.
To wrap up on the pattern, you have the option to get a PDF download or order a paper copy of this pattern. In the download you get:
- a zip file containing 6 files
- A4 print at home or print shop (pay attention to printing instructions as they are a bit different – do your test page and then assemble following the directions
- detailed instructions including cutting layout: very helpful
- Sewing Supplies List
As I get older, my style changes and I notice a lot of patterns tend to be trendier or similar to fast fashion. Now I’m looking for pieces that aren’t necessarily on trend but that can be worn throughout the years. I love the casual and elegant style of PM-Patterns and I would be lying if I said I get “dressed” up all the time so this pattern gives me a casual but put together look. To finalize, it sometimes is difficult to see your measurements into garments when compared to the pattern or even on pictures you can see things you may not like about yourself. I encourage you to make things you feel comfortable in and that you like how you look even if it’s not what you see on a model or on the pattern views. Love yourself and enjoy sewing!
Check out the rest of the blogs on this tour and don’t forget to enter the giveaway below!
Pm-Patterns Blog Tour
- March, 13th: Lilla-Gumma/My Sewing Roots
- March, 14th: Sew Sew Ilse/Threadistry/ Seams Sew Lo
- March, 15th: Sprouting JubeJube/Sewrendipity/Sewvolution
- March, 16th: Sewing Vortex/OakBlue Designs/AusChick
- March, 17th Octaves of Color